Port Renfrew is a small Canadian
town with a major fishing problem. The problem
is the sport fishing is great and only a few
people know that.
We
arrive in Port Renfrew in late afternoon.
Captain Quigley greets us at the entrance to
Osprey Cabins. Quigley and his family provide
these comfortable cabins in a beautiful rural
setting - and there's an outdoor hot tub to
boot! Their place is one of the most popular
accommodations in Port Renfrew, and their rates
are very reasonable.
Captain Quigley is one of the
most skilled and knowledgeable guides we've ever
met. We've been out with the affable "Capt'n
Quigs" before, at his other fishing operation in
Sooke, BC. (45 minutes west of Victoria) so we
know we're in good hands!
The alarm shatters our solid
sleep at 5 a.m. We're on the water by 6:00. The
sun is just coming up behind us as we speed
westward, heading towards the mouth of the San
Juan Inlet. Quigley's boat is fast and powerful.
We hang on to our seats as we bounce over the
big waves!
We stop just off Camper's Bay,
where the West Coast Trail from Port Renfrew
meets the "Pacific Ocean" for the first time.
The shoreline cliffs were spectacular and carved
into numerous huge dark caves.
Captain Quigley points over
the port side towards the open Pacific. "Next
stop Hawaii, and that way, Japan!" The water is
as calm as it ever gets out here, but the
rolling swells are huge. The sun is shining
brightly now, but cool dark fog is already
rising from the water, cloaking the cliffs. It
looks like the trees are suspended in the air
far above us.
Captain Quigley tells us we're
sure to catch some big ones today. Swiftsure
Bank, where Juan de Fuca Strait drops off into
the deep blue Pacific, is where halibut and
salmon are most plentiful. It's hard to believe
we're fishing on the edge of the open Pacific
Ocean.
The first one I catch is a
screamer! They call it that because it grabs the
bait and takes off. The line literally 'screams'
as the fish runs. Quigley knows what to do. He
puts the boat in gear and chases the fish. My
eyes almost pop when I look down at the reel and
there are only about 3 wraps of line left! In
seconds, the fish has run almost 300 yards of
line. I reel as fast as I can until the line's
tight again and the fight's back on.
Non-stop excitement, boats all
around us are getting strike after strike. On
Quigley's radio, we can hear the guides sharing
information about their catches - "Double
strike, 40 feet down!" They all share their
success so everyone else can succeed too.
Even when there's a lull, and
the fish aren't biting, Captain Quigley is
entertaining us. He teaches us his latest
fish-luring chant and the accompanying dance:
"Chinook, Chinook - Bite on my hook, my hook!"
There's never a dull moment on board.
And when the fish are biting,
Quigley is a very patient teacher: "Let him run!
That's it He's got the whole boat to play with.
Let him tire himself out"
Later, Quigley tells us a
story about the biggest fish ever landed on his
boat. He had taken an elderly couple on an
expedition, and it was turning out to be a
disappointingly uneventful day - not one bite!
Until they decided to turn back.
Then, all of a sudden, they
got a nibble. It was a huge struggle, but with
Quigley's help, they reeled it in - a 52 pounder!
Now that's a really big salmon. It went on to
win several categories in the fishing derby.
We catch our limit long before
the charter's over, each fish is in the
twenty-pound range. We had about 100lbs of fish
on board, enough to feed us all winter! (We were
fishing for spring salmon as the Coho and
Sockeye fisheries were temporarily closed.)
When I made dinner that night,
back in Victoria, one fillet filled the grill on
my barbeque! Five people dug in and there was
2/3 left over! We're talking serious salmon
here, folks!
Small town, big fishing
problem - right? Now you know.