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By Dannielle Hayes
A visit to Argentina
should begin with a tango lesson, for the rhythms of the music reflect
the passion and complex beauty found throughout this country, especially
in the capital of Buenos Aires. Often called the Paris of South
America, each neighborhood of the city has a distinct character and
flavor built upon its rich history.
An Argentine is an Italian who speaks Spanish, dresses like a
Frenchman, and thinks like an Englishman so goes an old saying. Buenos
Aires residents call themselves portenos because the city began as a
port along the Rio de la Plata, where cattle and grain were exported.
Early immigrants, mostly working-class Europeans, settled in La Boca,
birthplace of the tango and still one of the citys most colorful
neighborhoods.
It was here in the brothels of La Boca where young men and women in
the late 1800s began to play their melancholy tunes and dance. The
famous Carlos Gardel took tango music to Paris in the early 1920s and
suddenly tango music and dance became all the rage. Simultaneously, a
13-year old bandoneonist (accordion/concertina) in New York, Astor
Piazzolla caught the attention of Gardel and tango music soared in
popularity. Today, La Boca with its brightly painted immigrant houses
resonates with the sights and sounds of tango, and is quite the tourist
attraction.
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It is in the neighborhood of San Telmo however, where many of the tango
dance halls are found. Originally an area of very wealthy stylish
mansions, plagues of yellow fever and cholera left San Telmo to the poor
immigrants, while the rich built even grander palaces around Retiro. Now
in San Telmo, a wonderful Antique Fair and Flea Market takes place every
Sunday at Plaza Dorrego and one of the best tango shows can be seen
nightly at Michelangelos, (http://www.michelangelotango.com)
a converted grain warehouse.
Retiro is the neighborhood of the Railway Station, one of the largest
in the world and Plaza San Martin, which at different times has been a
slave market, a bullfight ring and botanical garden. The lovely Marriott
Plaza Hotel, a fine example of Beaux Arts style, has stood across from
the plaza since 1909, setting the tone for many of the surrounding
palace designs that followed. Special Tango packages run until the end
of December, call 800-228-9290.
Around the corner from the hotel, Avenida Florida is a wide
pedestrian street stretching down to Avenida de Mayo. One should not
miss the tango show at Piazzolla, shopping at the beautiful Galerias
Pacifico, both on Florida, or coffee and pastry at the historic Caf
Tortoni along Avenida de Mayo
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